January 9th – Toward the Gorilla Reserve
Good day, January 9th. I left Oyo at 7:00 in the morning—unusual for me, but necessary. I wanted to make up the distance I hadn’t covered the day before and pass through two more towns on my way to a place I had been looking forward to: a reserve known for gorillas.
It was Marek, the motorbike rider I had traveled with in convoy back in Cameroon, who first told me about it. He had really wanted to visit, and I suppose that inspired me to do the same.
On the Road Again
I gave a short ride to someone named Magongo—though it was brief and I don’t recall much about the conversation. I also stopped for a quick “coffee in the NGO,” which basically meant a cup of Nescafé. Simple, but it does the job.
Eventually, I reached the turnoff for the gorilla reserve—about 13 kilometers down a dirt track labeled ABO 1, 2, and 3. This was definitely four-wheel-drive territory. There were sections where a regular car would likely have gotten stuck. In some stretches, the path narrowed to a single track, so if another vehicle approached, someone would have to dip into the tall grass.
The drive itself was stunning—rolling green hills and endless tall grass. If you left the track, you simply disappeared into the greenery. The 13 kilometers took about an hour, but it was an unforgettable approach.
Arrival at the Reserve
I arrived at what they called the Réserve Naturelle des Gorilles de Lésio-Louna (as written on the receipt). Entry was 15,000 CFA. To see the gorillas required an additional 45,000 CFA, and staying overnight in a cabin was another 30,000 CFA. Altogether, roughly $100—and absolutely worth it.
I decided to stay the night. They allowed me to use their kitchen facilities, though I also have my own setup in the vehicle. They didn’t have food or drinks available for purchase, but I was well supplied.
Visiting the Gorillas
There was still enough time that afternoon to visit the gorillas. What I hadn’t realized beforehand was that reaching them required crossing water—they live on an island-like area. We took a boat across and navigated part of the river.
Only three or four gorillas are accessible from this particular location. I saw three of them. They were mostly calm and not overly active, but seeing them up close was remarkable. Being in a boat added a sense of safety, as the water created a natural buffer even when we approached closely.
Interestingly, two of the gorillas had originally come from England and had been zoo animals before being released into this semi-wild environment. From what I understood, there is also a larger colony of around 60 gorillas deeper in the reserve, though that group isn’t accessible to visitors.
Life at the Reserve
The reserve operates with two rotating crews of five or six staff members. No one stays permanently. That evening, there was a soccer match on television, and although I’m not particularly into soccer, it was entertaining to watch the staff watch the game.
The boat ride and visit took quite some time. I didn’t exactly shake hands with the gorillas, but I watched them being fed vegetables—onions seem to be a favorite.
Forest Silence
I chose to stay overnight since cabins were available. The reserve receives about 1,000 visitors per year—an average of three per day—though sometimes groups of 20 arrive at once. They’re working to increase visitor numbers.
Ironically, during the afternoon someone was cutting grass around the cabins, so it wasn’t quite the quiet forest experience I imagined. But later that night and early the next morning, the stillness was almost deafening. I’m not used to staying deep in the forest—I’m usually somewhere in a town—so the silence was profound.
A Rewarding Day
It was a very special and rewarding experience. Absolutely worthwhile. Thanks for coming along.
