Waking Up at Sanctuary Farm, Kenya
May 10th, 2026. I woke up in a tent at the Sanctuary Farm near Lake Naivasha in Kenya. The farm has a rich history stretching back generations. Sir Derek Erskine, a Brit who stayed in Kenya after independence, started the family’s connection to the land. His son Francis bought the 450-acre farm in 1974. Then his son Guy met a lady named Julie, who was British, and they had three children: Jamie, Quilly, and Felix.
The Erskine Family and How I Got Here
Quilly is the one I met in Mozambique, and that’s why I’m here. Julie is no longer with us, and Guy is still around though I didn’t get to meet him. Jamie is the architect who designed the five rental homes on the farm. Felix runs the place, and I did get to speak with him briefly. At least we made contact and he knows how I got there — that’s the main thing.
Famous Kitchen, But Pizza Rules
The farm is famous for its food, and I was really looking forward to seeing what they were cooking. But it turns out they were in the process of developing a new menu, so pizza was pretty much the only option. However, the pizza was really, really good, so it wasn’t a big loss. I made a deal with them to put everything on a bill and pay with Visa at the end since I didn’t have any local cash. That solved a major problem and meant there was less reason to leave the farm.
Meeting Fellow Travelers
The night before, when I got to my tent, there was another tent next to me. Owen Nyabuto from Nairobi was there with two friends from Iran. They were making a fire in the dark, and they offered me tea. Despite global tensions at the time, between regular people it was no problem at all. We had some wonderful conversations.
A Walk Through the Wildlife
The next morning I took a long walk around most of the farm. The wildlife was incredible — zebras, impalas, wildebeest, waterbuck, Thomson gazelles, monkeys, and lots of amazing birds were all around me. On my last day, I even saw giraffes. It’s pretty wild to be able to walk freely through all these animals. There’s a lot to it, and it’s truly an amazing place.
The Farm’s Dairy Operation
I got to see the cows being milked the night before. They have about 40 cows, with around 24 being milked, all by hand. The cows are gathered twice a day. The farm uses all the milk themselves — making cheese and other products — except for selling to one other party.
Lake Naivasha’s Rising Waters
Since 2019, Lake Naivasha has been rising dramatically — probably at least a meter above its previous level. Buildings all around the lake have been abandoned, demolished, or relocated. The rising water has significantly impacted the landscape and the communities around it.
Boat Ride and Hippo Spotting
I arranged a boat ride and invited Owen and his friends to come along. The person who organizes the tours was driving a 1980 Toyota that’s still going strong. Our boat tour guide did an amazing job and found us some hippos to observe. They don’t look very big when they’re in the water, and you try not to get too close. We got to see firsthand how the rising water level has impacted the lake, with some buildings standing partially submerged. It was an amazing, unforgettable feeling.
Final Thoughts
After the boat ride, it was time for more pizza — because that’s what was on the menu. Really, if you ever have a chance to get to Sanctuary Farm near Lake Naivasha, you won’t regret it. Thanks for coming along.
