October 7, 2025 – Starting from Tan-Tan Beach
Good day. October 7, 2025, Tan-Tan Beach is where we’re starting from. We had a nice breakfast at the hotel to get the day started. You never know what you’ll find along the way — maybe one town, maybe two, maybe none. The options are slim, and you need to be prepared for a breakdown with supplies to sustain yourself for a while. The road is relatively well-traveled, so it’s not dangerous, a big improvement from 50 years ago when crossing the Sahara meant seeing only one or two vehicles in a whole day.
On the Road to Tarfaya
We continued along four-lane roads and headed toward Tarfaya, which is a good spot for a coffee stop. Occasionally, the coast comes close, offering rugged and scenic views. Along the way, small cabins appear every 5–10 kilometers where soldiers seem to be stationed, guarding the coastline — a lonely but important job in the middle of nowhere.
Approaching Laayun
Next, we aimed for Laayun (or Laune), a town a bit inland from the coast. After driving through long stretches of rocks and desert with minimal traffic, the city appears suddenly. It feels like an island in the desert, with few nearby towns and hours of travel separating it from the next settlement.
Staying in Laayun
We checked into the Saharan Hotel, a relatively new six-story building. The rooms were small but functional, with internet access and reasonable pricing at around $50. Breakfast was served on the sixth floor, offering a good start for the day ahead.
Exploring the Town
Walking around Laayun, we tried to converse with locals, relying mostly on French, and occasionally English, as Arabic and Berber dominate the area. Shops and streets come alive in the evening, creating a lively ambience. Kids play in the parks, and the town feels vibrant despite its isolation.
Reflections on the Day
It was a day of long stretches and quiet roads, punctuated by the sudden life of a desert town. Thank you for coming along, and we’ll share more tomorrow.
