Shedding Gear and Saying Goodbye
Today, April 21st, my intention was to head south in Malawi. Before leaving, I ended up shedding a lot more things — frying pans, technical equipment, camping gear — and leaving them with Dave, Blessing, and Rachel. Blessing and Rachel are the housekeepers where I’ve been staying, and Rachel has also cooked many of my meals. They’re very nice ladies, each with their own challenges, so it seemed like a good idea to let them have all that stuff. Everything is in great shape, and I’m sure they’ll benefit from it.
Understanding Local Wages in Malawi
When you ask about what people earn here, it’s about 10,000 kwacha per day — roughly $6-7. As Dave explained, when he started out in 1993, the going rate was $1 a day. He opted to pay $2 a day, but then people wouldn’t stay because they’d have enough money to do what they wanted — saving for new shoes or something — and they just wouldn’t return. You have to find what works. People in managing positions are paid twice as much. It’s a moving target and an interesting part of the economics of working in Africa.
The Bridge That Blocked My Route South
It was time for me to go, and I was hoping to check out the bridge and perhaps reach the Pottery Lodge where Bruce had gone. I drove 50 km to the bridge, only to find they were still at about a third of the bypass construction. If they can have it ready by Friday, I’ll be very surprised — Monday seems more reasonable. Lots of people were gathering there, markets had sprung up, and food was being made and served right next to the bridge where normally there was nothing.
I assessed the situation and even considered driving over what remained of the bridge, but it would have taken a lot of ingenuity and still wasn’t a sure thing. So I opted out, which meant driving the same 50 kilometers back to Mzuzu. With the extra 100 km of backtracking, that was as far as I got for the day.
Finding a Place to Stay Through Serendipity
Back in Mzuzu, I tried to find accommodation. The Sunbird Lodge next to a golf course was way out of my price range. A small place with only three rooms was fully booked. But the owner, Mike, realized I was from the Netherlands and said, “”Oh, let me call Ron.”” Ron is a Dutch person he knows, who happened to be visiting someone at the Yumantu Guest House. Ron asked the owner, Caitlin, if there was room for me, and there was.
Mike sent one of his employees to guide me there, and we found Ron. He’s a man in his late 50s or 60s from the Netherlands who has been in Malawi for about 15 years. He was working on converting an oven when I arrived.
Meeting Caitlin and Ron — Dutch Expats in Malawi
The owner of the Yumantu Guest House is Caitlin Den Hollander, a Dutch woman who has been in Malawi since 2006 and has owned and run the place for five years. She doesn’t stay there overnight — she has another place where she lives.
Ron used to live in the Betuwe near Tiel in the Netherlands and had a profitable business. That was cut short by a serious high-speed car accident that forced him to adjust his life completely, and the business didn’t survive. He eventually made it to Malawi and has been there ever since. He gets around with public transportation, fixes things, builds things, and helps people. He’s a very good soul.
A Day of Unexpected Blessings
It’s been pretty awesome to end up here. The way everything fell into place — from Mike recognizing my nationality, to calling Ron, to Ron happening to be at the right guest house at the right moment — is just very, very amazing. Thank you for coming along.
