Leaving Vila Nkulos and Beach Surprises
Today, April 2nd, I decided not to stay another night at my accommodation. Before leaving, I drove around town and headed to the beach, where I witnessed an incredible sight. It was low tide, and a long line of people stood far out in the water, pulling together fishing nets that had been set out by boat. This is how they fish here in Mozambique.
The Kilimanjaro Cafe Discovery
I also found a place called the Kilimanjaro Hotel with its Kilimanjaro Cafe. Anything with “”Kilimanjaro”” in it grabs my attention since I climbed Kilimanjaro twice with Encounter Overland groups back in the day, making it to the top both times. The cafe turned out to be a high-quality spot with great coffee and cold drinks.
Challenging Road North Towards Chimoio
It was time to leave Vila Nkulos and head north towards Chimoio. I couldn’t find any hotels along the route and the distance was more than I wanted to cover in one day, so camping was a possibility. The road was brutal — potholes everywhere, speed bumps, heavy truck traffic, and fast buses. One unique feature of Mozambique is that the small buses often have little trailers attached for passengers’ belongings. Road improvement projects added detour paths alongside the main road, making for an interesting journey.
Arriving in Save and an Incredible Encounter
I finally reached a town called Save (S-A-V-E), where I found Hotel Save right on the Save River, which flows all the way from Zimbabwe. Just half an hour before I arrived, a scientific expedition group had checked in. They were part of the Great Spine of Africa by the Wilderness Project — an organization that explores rivers one at a time using canoes while conducting scientific research.
The Great Spine of Africa Expedition Team
The team included two women scientists, Lauren and Kili (Q-U-I-L-L-E-I-E), who led the research. They were supported by experienced paddlers familiar with whitewater conditions, along with extensive equipment including drones. The ground crew consisted of two brothers driving support vehicles, staying as close to the river as possible during the three-week expedition in case of emergencies. The entire trip had lasted 27 days, as they had to walk to the river to get started. They had landed about two hours from Save that morning and were waiting for their second vehicle before heading back to Zimbabwe.
An Unforgettable Evening Together
The timing was unbelievable — I arrived just 30 minutes after they did. They invited me to join them for a chicken dinner down the street. One of the crew members helped me arrange a room since he could translate between English and Portuguese. The hotel didn’t have Wi-Fi, but the expedition team had Starlink with them for internet access anywhere on their journey.
A Diverse and Inspiring Group
The group’s makeup was fascinating — one scientist from Kenya, one from Cape Town, and the rest of the team from Zimbabwe and Zambia. What an amazing group of people and what a privilege to cross paths with them on this trip. These unexpected encounters are what make this journey so special. Thank you so much for coming along.
