October 11, 2025 — Johan’s 73rd Birthday in Nouadhibou
Good day, October 11th. It happens to be Johan’s birthday and he turns 73 today. We started the day looking for a place to have some coffee and breakfast. Back home, coffee spots are everywhere, but in Nouadhibou, Mauritania, restaurants are extremely hard to find. Everything is very basic and busy when people are around, but services are not easy to locate. After a fair walk, we finally found a quiet spot where they made us breakfast.
Meeting Fellow Travelers
While we were having breakfast, we were joined by Jonas and Pascal, two German guys in their mid-20s riding motorbikes whom we had met while crossing into Mauritania. Their plan was to ride all the way to South Africa, and we could relate to their adventure. We exchanged information and learned about their plan to ride the famous Mauritanian iron ore train.
The Iron Ore Train Adventure
The iron ore train travels from the interior of Mauritania to Nouadhibou. Tourists are technically not supposed to ride it, but it has become a challenge for adventurous travelers. Jonas and Pascal were determined to take on the ride. On the outbound journey from Nouadhibou, the wagons are empty, but on the return trip, passengers sit on top of the iron ore for what is supposedly a 14-hour journey — not the most comfortable ride, but a memorable challenge.
Exploring Nouadhibou
After breakfast, we drove through the town and explored further along the peninsula. We found a hotel at the end of the road where we could enjoy coffee. Nouadhibou shows a lot of industry and desolation. Overall, the quality of life appears low, though some areas under development are better cared for and more complete. Since we arrived late, we opted to stay an additional night in Nouadhibou to prepare for the next leg of our journey.
Dinner and Local Life
Finding dinner was intense. Eventually, we discovered a nice spot that was part bakery and part takeout restaurant with seating. The food was high quality, but you really have to search to find places like this. Life here is busy and challenging — people bartering, selling almost anything, and waiting for customers.
A Remarkable Story
We learned that 35 people from Nouadhibou had left in a fishing boat and reached one of the islands off the coast — a major feat considering the distance. They all survived, but what happens next is unknown. Days like today remind me of the resilience and challenges of life in Mauritania. Thank you for coming along, and we’ll catch more tomorrow.
