Keeping the Diesel Topped Up
Good day, it is March 21st, a Saturday. I’ve been making a point to keep my diesel tanks fueled up. With potential threats to diesel availability in the world right now, I’m trying to make use of my two tanks’ full 180-liter capacity. I typically refuel about 60 liters after every day of substantial driving.
A Colorful Welcome at the Country Goat Cafe
Today turned out to be an amazingly special day. My first stop was in Heimveld at the Country Goat Cafe. The owner was outside and immediately noticed my orange vehicle. It turned out her cafe sign is the exact same shade of orange as my car! She was totally excited, and we ended up taking a picture together with the car and the sign. What a fun coincidence.
Deciding to Tackle Sani Pass
The weather wasn’t looking great, and I wasn’t sure I’d be able to see much if I attempted Sani Pass that day. After checking the weather reports, it didn’t look like conditions would improve for the next few days — I’d potentially have to wait 2 or 3 days for clear skies. That didn’t seem right, so after an amazing lunch at the Heimveld cafe, I decided to push on and try Sani Pass that day.
The Climb Up Sani Pass
I didn’t fully know what I was getting into, but it turned out in some ways to be much better than expected. The road was paved all the way to the South African border post. From there to the top — roughly 10-15 kilometers — there was no pavement at all. You ride on rocks, and it gets steeper and steeper with many switchbacks.
The benefit of riding in the clouds was that I couldn’t see the deep drops I was passing by, which was probably for the best. The ride was absolutely mind-blowing. I felt like a mountain goat going up that hill — it’s definitely the steepest climb I’ve ever done with this Land Cruiser.
About 10 four-wheel drives came down the hill while I was going up, part of organized groups that pay to do 4×4 trips up Sani Pass. It’s a very dangerous ride, and a 4×4 is absolutely the right vehicle. You couldn’t get there with anything less. Maybe a cross motorbike could manage it, but beyond that, I wouldn’t recommend it.
Crossing into Lesotho
I reached the top by mid-afternoon and arrived at the border post to enter Lesotho. The process was pretty straightforward. It was raining and cloudy, but one of the border agents helped me outside since I had to scan a document and drop it in a box. Since my steering wheel is on the “”wrong”” side, he handled it for me, which was very helpful.
What I didn’t expect was that from the Lesotho border post onward, the road was paved again. That was a huge relief after the scary, rocky climb up Sani Pass.
Finding a Place to Stay at the Top
There’s a lodge within 1-2 kilometers of the border that’s a popular stop for people doing day trips on Sani Pass. When I arrived, a group of 10 people from City Hill Church in Durban was already staying there. There was one cabin that appeared to be taken, but the lodge manager suspected the guest might not show up. After waiting just 10 minutes, she confirmed the cabin was available. I was thrilled.
I also noticed that my motorcyclist friend on the BMW 1250, who had been planning to do Sani Pass that day, never showed up. My guess is that after his recent accident where the motorbike fell on him, he wisely decided not to attempt this treacherous climb. I wouldn’t attempt Sani Pass on a BMW 1250 either — that’s asking for serious trouble.
An Evening with the City Hill Church Mission Group
I got to know the group of 10 from City Hill Church in Durban. They were on a mission — they had arrived the day before, gone into the mountains, and met some of the local shepherds. That evening, they were preparing dinner for the shepherds at a small church about 5 kilometers down the road that has a connection with their church in Durban.
It turns out they do this three times a year, sending up a group to strengthen connections and support the mission work of a local pastor focused on the shepherds in the area.
I had the privilege of joining them that evening, and it was truly a mind-blowing event. The gathering became a heartfelt session where many of the group members shared their testimonies about faith and prayer. Songs were sung with guitars they had brought, and quite a few shepherds showed up as well. The shepherds sang along and even used their sheep-herding whistles as part of the music. It was an incredibly special and moving experience.
Meeting Wonderful People
Among the group, I met some fascinating individuals. One girl named Ella was visiting from England — she’s only 14 years old but a real go-getter. Another member was a woman of Indian descent who owns an insurance agency in Durban. The diversity and warmth of the group made the evening even more memorable.
The church group had brought enough food to feed everyone. I had already eaten a small burger at the lodge, but there was plenty to go around. A service was planned for the next morning as well, and I had the option to join.
A Truly Special Day
From the colorful welcome at the Country Goat Cafe, to the thrilling and nerve-wracking climb up Sani Pass, to the deeply moving church gathering with shepherds in the mountains of Lesotho — this was one of the most special days of my entire journey. Thanks for coming along on this very special day.
