Leaving Lomé
Good day for December 16th. It was already time once again to leave Lomé. I’m not spending a ton of time in many places, and a lot of that has to do with visas.
They can be nerve-wracking at times, and border crossings aren’t much better, but all you can really do is trust that things will work out.
Heading West Along the Coast
This time I left Lomé at a reasonable hour, knowing I wasn’t going to travel very far and would still stay within Togo.
I ended up in a place called Grand Popo, a small town along the coastal route. Just before town, I stopped at a bamboo beach resort where I was pretty sure I was the only guest.
A Quiet Bamboo Beach Resort

The owner never showed up, but the person taking care of the place handled everything just fine. Once again, I gave in to the temptation to try swimming.
It didn’t take long to realize that it’s not always a good idea here. The sand rises sharply near the shore, which makes the water rush in fast and pull out just as quickly.
The Power of the Ocean
If you get caught in that zone, you’re flipped upside down, sandblasted, and suddenly not sure which way is up anymore.
I didn’t have to swim my way back to safety, but it came closer than I was comfortable with. That kind of experience is enough to make you think twice for a while.
Life in a Fishing Town
Nearby, many people were busy fishing. There are boats of all different sizes, and even the largest ones—still not very big—take about 30 people out to sea.
They go out for relatively short trips and don’t even take ice to preserve the fish. When I asked about competition from large outside trawlers, I was told the navy patrols offshore to keep them away, helping protect the local fish supply.
Fish is a big deal here, something I’ve seen again and again throughout West Africa.
Palm Trees and Simple Comforts
Being on the coastal route means some pretty amazing scenery. There are coconuts everywhere and bits of agriculture even around the place where I stayed.
The resort didn’t really serve food, but a nearby place helped out. It took some effort on their part to make it happen.
I also asked for a beer to go with the meal, which was initially forgotten. They eventually went elsewhere to get one—though it wasn’t quite as cold as I had hoped.
Last Night in Togo
In the end, it didn’t really matter. It was a good, very convenient place to stay.
Palm trees and a beach—what more can you ask for?
This was my last night in Togo. The journey continues from here.
That’s it for December 16th. Thanks for staying along.








