Morning Near the Gorillas
Good day. January 10th. I woke up close to the gorillas in a beautifully quiet setting. I enjoyed some coffee and tea, but quickly learned a lesson about moisture. I had used my own matches to light the gas stove and had left them out of their sealed bag overnight. The air was so damp that it took nearly a dozen matches before I could get a proper flame. Lesson learned: keep matches sealed and protected if you want an easy fire in this climate.
The 13km Track Back
All I had to do was drive 13km back to the main road. I had heard there might be five people coming down the same track, but timing is always uncertain. Since much of the route is a single track, it could have been tricky. About 15 minutes in, two cars came toward me. I pulled over and packed up a bit to let them pass. I may have stopped sooner than they expected to take a photo, but it all worked out.
Finding the correct track again was important, as it’s not always obvious which way to go. I managed well this time and didn’t get stuck, although there were challenging stretches and water crossings where you can’t tell how deep it is or whether there’s a hidden hole beneath the surface. Eventually, I made it back to the main road and reset the handle and wheels to get out of four-wheel drive—an easy enough task.
Meeting Joachim
Not long after, I came across a man looking for a ride. His name was Joachim, 63 years old and a father of eight children. That seems to be a common theme in this region—many large families. Joachim was on his way to Brazzaville to visit his wife, who had been taken to the hospital the day before. Some of his children now live there, so he planned to stay for a while.
He lives about 15km off the main road in a village of around 300 people with no running water. He had walked that entire distance and arrived at 8 o’clock in the morning, hoping for a ride. He was one of the kindest people you could meet.
Stories from the Congo
As we talked, he shared that he originally came from what used to be called Zaire, now the Democratic Republic of the Congo. When he visits his home village every few years, the journey takes weeks. He travels to Kinshasa and then continues by boat along the river, which alone can take two weeks. These visits often last two months in total.
He has been a farmer ever since moving to the Congo, growing his own food and raising his family. Now his children are grown—some are drivers, others have professional careers. He has done well for himself, and he was wonderful company on the road.
Arrival in Brazzaville
Eventually, I reached Brazzaville. Traffic was heavy and slow as I made my way into the city. I arrived at the hotel where I had made a reservation, and it turned out to be an excellent location. The foundation of the hotel is actually in the Congo River, and the spot where you can enjoy a beer sits right above the water. The river is incredibly wide, and you can see Kinshasa in the distance. It’s quite a remarkable place to stay.
Hotel Negotiations and Final Reflections
Staying an extra night turned into a small challenge. The hotel didn’t initially want to offer me the same rate I had paid online and suggested I rebook through the internet. Of course, I couldn’t find the same price. After some discussion, the owner agreed to match the rate, which worked out better for them anyway since they avoided paying website fees.
Finding the hotel again was an adventure in itself, involving dirt roads and large water puddles where you can’t see where you’re driving. But that’s part of the experience—adventure time and again, and absolutely worth it. Thanks for coming along.
