October 10, 2025 — Crossing from Dakhla to Mauritania
Good day. October 10th — a really big day. We needed to be in Dakhla by today, and we made it just in time because our export license plates were expiring. This was the last day they were insured and legal to drive in Western Sahara. Starting tomorrow, we’d be on export plates only and would have to get new insurance in whichever country we entered next.
Fueling Up and Leaving Dakhla
Before heading out, we fueled up in Dakhla, where fuel is so much cheaper than in Europe — just a little over a dollar per liter. We passed by the famous windsurfing area, filled with accommodations for those willing to pay for the experience. The road out of Dakhla was a well-paved two-lane highway, though we had several stops with policemen along the way. They often asked for our passports, sometimes took photos of them, or requested a fiche (a photocopy of the passport). With patience and a good attitude, these stops were never a problem.
Approaching the Moroccan Border
Eventually, we reached a town called something like Kerarath — the border town marking the end of the Kingdom of Morocco. A large sign announced we were leaving Morocco, though it’s technically a disputed territory. You wouldn’t really notice much difference on the ground. What we did notice was the long waiting line. It took several hours to move through customs and passport control.
Customs, Scanning, and Patience
To leave Morocco, our vehicle had to be scanned again. We drove into a large pit area, got out of the car, and watched as the scanner passed over it. Then it was a shuffle between different stations — picking up documents, visiting police, getting stamps, and sorting customs paperwork. There were no signs, so patience and asking questions were key. We were lucky; many travelers had to completely empty their vehicles for inspection. In total, it took us over four hours just to exit Morocco and Western Sahara.
The Rough Road to Mauritania
After clearing Moroccan customs, we faced a stretch of road that could hardly be called a road. It was rough, sandy, and full of hazards. Trucks and trailers bounced along the uneven path. We were met by the head of the gendarmerie, who kindly pointed us toward a “helper” — someone who could guide us through the Mauritanian entry process. Of course, this came at a cost, but it was well worth it given how late in the day it was.
Crossing into Mauritania
With our helper, we visited about six or seven different offices — sometimes with the car, sometimes on foot. Each stop required either a form, a signature, or a payment. We had already arranged an electronic visa for Mauritania through Visum NL for €99, which we printed with the help of our hotel in Dakhla. Still, we paid an additional $55 for another visa-related fee and around Dh100 for something else. Along the way, we exchanged euros at a not-so-favorable rate — 40 of their currency per euro instead of the usual 45 or 46 — but it was enough to buy vehicle insurance for the next 10 days at a cost of 950 of their currency. Finally, our helper took another €40, which, considering his effort, was well worth it.
Driving After Dark
By the time we finished the border formalities, it was dark — something I always try to avoid. Driving at night here is dangerous: camels, goats, potholes, eroded road edges, and sand covering the pavement make for a risky drive. Windstorms can blow sand across the highway, and while there is equipment to clear it, that only happens eventually. For an hour we drove through the dark, seeing nothing but headlights and shadows, on our way to Nouadhibou.
Finding a Hotel in Nouadhibou
Johan managed to find us a hotel online, but none of the listings worked out in reality. We ended up in strange, chaotic places near the fishing docks, surrounded by people and activity since everything comes alive in the evening. After several dead ends, we asked a local if they knew where our hotel was. To our surprise, they took their car and had us follow them directly there — an incredible act of kindness. The hotel wasn’t in a busy area, but it was comfortable and clean — exactly what we needed after such a long day.
Reflections on the Day
It turned out to be a very good day — exhausting, expensive, and full of inspections, but successful. We crossed from Dakhla into Mauritania, navigated endless paperwork, and made it safely to a welcoming bed. Days like this remind me why we travel — to experience the unexpected and to appreciate the small victories along the road.
