Skip to content

Leaving Cotonou Carefully

Good day. December 20th. Heading back to Kirk’s Guest House required a bit of extra caution. The last turn is full of deep open holes where wastewater and rainwater are meant to flow. Many of the covers are missing, and I’ve seen cars end up stuck in those ditches. Once you’re in, it’s very difficult to get out.

It’s also a hazard for pedestrians, especially with holes already scattered throughout the pavement. On top of that, there’s ongoing concrete work down the street, with large piles of sand being dropped off and sometimes blocking the road entirely. Staying alert is essential.

Border Formalities Into Nigeria

With that behind me, it was time to leave Cotonou and head toward Nigeria. Border crossings always come with a bit of excitement. Just like when I entered Benin, there was a single location where both the exit and entry procedures were handled. Helpers were everywhere and occasionally arguing among themselves, but in the end, everything worked out.

On the Nigerian side, I learned that a landing card is required. This was something I could have taken care of in advance if I’d paid closer attention. Instead, I completed it on my phone by filling out an online form and sending the details via WhatsApp to someone at the border. Only after that could I proceed into Nigeria.

It all felt like a lot of complication for very little benefit. Fingerprinting, again, was part of the process. I suppose by now my records are well documented—clear proof that I’ve been there.

First Miles Inside Nigeria

Once through the border, it was time to relax a bit and enjoy the drive. I had wondered whether traffic in Nigeria ran on the left, but it turns out it’s still right-hand driving, which kept things simple.

Even so, everything changes when you enter a new country. The landscape, the pace, and the look of things all feel different almost immediately.

Through Lagos and Onward

The next big question was Lagos. I’d originally hoped to avoid it, but there was no real reason to. It’s busy, but there are good through-roads, and only the market areas slow things down noticeably. The light rail construction looks promising where it’s active, even though it will likely take years to fully complete.

Time ultimately dictated how far I could go, and I ended up stopping in Ikorodu. It’s not much of a destination in itself, but it was where the day ended.

Getting Stuck and Finding a Place to Stay

Trying to find a small hotel led me through some very rough areas. At one point, I drove down a narrow road and got properly stuck. My rear wheels were spinning in the air, and the hook below the bumper was scraping the ground. Only after switching into four-wheel drive was I able to move again.

The place I was aiming for turned out to be just a block or two away. It was very cheap and barely an accommodation, but it was good enough. The man in charge noticed the situation and suggested another option. He even offered to take me there himself.

He had spent eight years in England before returning home for family reasons after his father passed away. Since coming back, he’s become a chef.

An Unexpected Welcome in Nigeria

He took me to the 360 Arena, navigating very crowded streets to get there. It’s a combination hotel and entertainment center. The music was loud most of the time, but there was food, something to drink, and a lively atmosphere.

I enjoyed being there and being in Nigeria. You often hear only the negative stories, but there are many good people here. People are friendly, and things work in their own way. You just have to stay open and adapt to what’s going on.

Thanks for coming along. You’ve made it to Nigeria.