Climbing Out of Freetown: A Stormy Start and a Steep Escape

Good day. This is take two for November 16th. (Take one was unusable.)

Stormy Start

One couldn’t really hear too well on take one because it was raining cats and dogs, with lightning and thunder. Hopefully that subsided sometime later. November 16th was the day I wanted to leave Freetown, if at all possible.

Reporting a Fraudulent Charge

First I went to the supermarket that had been hit by a fraudulent charge a day or two before. I let them know they were being targeted in some way, and they said they’d get in touch with the car place I had visited while it happened. It felt like the least I could do.

Meeting Peace Corps Volunteers

Next I met Merrill and Maxwell, two Peace Corps workers making their way from Makeni to Freetown along with their cohort. They’d spent about three months in villages getting settled into their roles and were understandably deprived of a few comforts. It was great to see them again and to take them somewhere that serves real coffee — which they really appreciated. We swapped stories and contact info. They’re doing an absolutely marvelous job and would be in Freetown for a week or two for further training and rest.

Leaving Freetown

Then it was time for me to head out of town. I set my Garmin for the route, though I’m not sure how well it pays attention to elevation. It routed me onto a new road I thought would be fine — but it turned out to be the steepest hill I’ve ever attempted in a car.

The Steep Hill

It had rained the night before, so the streets were clean of grit, but the climb looked extreme. If I had any lingering doubts about the car, I would have turned around and taken a longer route. Instead the braver part of me pressed on. I think I actually shook in my seat. You couldn’t see around the corners; parts of the grade must have been around 20 degrees, and there was no room for two cars. I pushed through and reached the top just as another car began to descend — lucky timing. I hope never to do that again.

Heading Toward Bo

From there it was a matter of finding my way to Bo — the second-largest town in Sierra Leone. There’s basically one road out of Freetown: through Waterloo, then inland, and at some point you split off south toward Bo. The route was enjoyable, lined with palm oil orchards, palm trees, and riverside vegetation.

Rides and Local Insights

I picked up a man named Paul who was heading home near Bo; he enlightened me about some local crops and features worth knowing. Later I picked up another passenger who guided me toward what he thought was a hotel. I dropped him off there, then realized the place was actually a club — seemingly frequented by people from India.

Night Driving & Arrival

By that time it was dark, and I absolutely do not enjoy driving at night here — you can’t see much and hazards appear suddenly. Fortunately it was a short distance. I eventually found Doas Hotel, a well-known and reasonable place. They had a room and a swimming pool, and I arrived in time for a refreshing rain shower, a meal, and even a late swim.