Early Morning Breakfast with Scientists
On April 3rd, I got up early to join the scientists for a 7 o’clock breakfast down the street from the hotel. What an amazing group of people. Three of them headed to the river to speak with police about conducting volume tests, but after two hours they discovered it wasn’t permitted — despite having permits for everything else. They took it in stride and waited for their second vehicle to arrive before continuing their journey.
Heading to the Mango Farm
I decided to get on my way independently. My destination was a mango farm recommended by Chris, run by a Dutch man named Willy Gaus. To get there, I needed to turn west at Chibamo towards Dombé. The roads continued to be challenging — some good stretches interspersed with rough patches. After the Chibamo turnoff, the road became a sandy track, slowing my progress considerably.
Disappointment at the Farm
I found the mango farm but discovered the owners wouldn’t return until the following week — Easter weekend had given them an excuse for a short trip elsewhere in Mozambique. I considered camping there, but since my primary goal was to speak with the Dutch owners and learn about the operation, I decided to move on. I did get to see some young mango trees they were growing, so the detour wasn’t entirely wasted.
The Road to Dombé and Picking Up Hitchhikers
Continuing toward Dombé, I encountered three kids who needed a ride of about 10 kilometers, so I gave them a lift. From Dombé, I set my sights north toward Chimoio, which seemed like a very long distance for one day’s drive.
Stunning Scenery on the Way to Chimoio
The road from Dombé turned out to be excellent, especially the first stretch — smooth with no potholes. As Chris had recommended, the scenery was absolutely astounding. Winding roads cut through lush green hills that stretched in every direction. It was truly breathtaking country. Potholes only started appearing closer to Chimoio, but I was prepared and made it through without trouble.
Staying at Villa Kilimanjaro in Chimoio
I arrived in Chimoio and found Villa Kilimanjaro, a hotel oddly situated at the end of an unpaved dead-end street. The place had been in business for about 8 years and, while it could have been better in some areas, it fulfilled my needs perfectly. The price was reasonable, it included breakfast, and they had a restaurant on-site.
A Memorable Dinner Experience
The hotel didn’t serve alcoholic beverages, so a staff member helped me find a nearby bar for a beer while dinner was being prepared. The dining experience was charmingly personal — the lady brought out three frozen fish and asked me to pick the one I wanted. I chose mine and had it prepared with noodles. The meal was delicious and incredibly affordable. I couldn’t help but wonder how anyone makes money charging so little for such good food.
Reflections on Language and Travel in Mozambique
Another wonderful day in Mozambique. My biggest regret remains not speaking Portuguese — one or two words simply aren’t enough for meaningful conversation, though I somehow manage to get things done. If I ever visit another Portuguese-speaking country, I’ll definitely need to brush up on the language beforehand. It’s a valuable tip for anyone planning a trip to this part of the world.
